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Saturday, 19 July 2014

Lace Me Up - Corsetry at TAFE SA

WARNING: this blog post contains BOOBS. Yes they are there, no I won't apologise for them. *It's a corset for goodness sake.* You Have Been Warned.

This is a course I have been wanting to do for a long time. The WEA used to run a corsetry course waaaay back when and I always wanted to go and try it out, even before I started sewing "for real" as I call it.

Making a goober face
When I discovered that TAFE SA runs a whole series of short fashion courses I was pretty damn excited...Corsetry! Fashion Drawing! Pattern Drafting! So. Many. Options. Of course corsetry was at the top of my list so I signed up for the 3 day course in July for $450.00 (including corsetry supplies) 

Just Look at that Hip Curve - LOOK AT IT!!!
Our lovely teacher Lesley was a total corset afficionardo and had some amazing samples with her to help us pick our design. I originally wanted to make a corset with bust cups since I have no idea how to fit those suckers when they occasionally show up in dress patterns (bombshell dress much??) While I did muslin a cupped corset I eventually decided that I wouldn't wear it much since I just feel self-conscious in anything outerwear that looks like it should actually be lingerie. Maybe I should learn bra-making and then I'll finally master the bust cups?

Muslin with pin-fit adjustments
Since I had such a pretty purple silk dupion for my outer fabric I didn't really want to make a corset that was just for the bedroom so I switched over to the hardest corset pattern in the room (of course) - the Edwardian S-Curve. This beauty doesn't have a straight line on her it seems and there are a million pieces to the design to stitch up. But I was in love and just had to have her!

Close up - Look at all those seams!!
Lesley was a wonderful and very understanding teacher - several of us chose more difficult designs than she had originally intended for the class but she was so encouraging and positive we all felt prepared to put in the extra work to end up with something amazing.

During construction - featuring the hip-curve-of-death
The corset itself has 3 layers - cotton lining for wearing comfort, coutil for structure and support and the outer fashion fabric. Each seam is double stitched on 2 different thread lengths to lock them together when under pressure from the lacing. The boning is 12mm spiral steel. I cut a size 12 then had to take in some excess at the hip and bust but the final corset is still a little big in the hip (I commonly have this problem with corsets -apparently I need hip pads lol) and can almost lace shut at the back. I'm assuming this is how it is meant to fit but next time I would consider sizing down to a 10 just to see if that helped with the proportions. I also added about an inch to the top of the bust as this designs was originally a Demi-cup and I didn't want to be spilling over so-to-speak. I'd was thinking to add another inch again and see if this changed the bust fit in my next muslin just for kicks but looking at these pics I'm not sure that's needed. I was hoping to get a little more waist compression from this corset but when it's on I am actually exactly the same waist measurement as normal - I think maybe a waspie or under bust corset could be a better option for me in this department so that's something to try next time too! And yes, Lesley did inform me that this amount of "platter boob" is how corsets are meant to fit (so sorrynotsorry but the girls are gonna be out for this post hehe)

Eyelets inserted, spiral steel and straight steel bones ready to go in!
The course was great fun, I met some fantastic girls who love sewing just as much as me. No one created the same thing, everyone had such amazing and unique designs - I wish I could see finished pictures from everyone, they were all so fabulous!! We had several wonderful conversations about ready-to-wear fashion devaluing sewing techniques and our pet hates on garment finishes and even ironing - where else would this happen but corset-school? It was also great fun getting to use the TAFE SA facilities at the light square fashion campus (hellooo gravity-feed iron and giant fabric press!!) I had an absolute ball and it even made me consider studying fashion and sewing. That's on the back burner for now but it was a wonderful introduction to the world of fashion study :-)

Laces everywhere
In terms of construction I am overall really happy with how my S-Curve came out although there are plenty of mistakes I could obsess over I am trying to see the bigger picture lol. Probably the biggest error I made was inserting part of the busk backwards! This means the front of the corset doesn't sit as perfectly flat as it should but once inserted there is no going back...but overall this was an intense make and I am pretty chuffed with the final result.

"What this? Oh I just had this lying around"
I'm seriously considering adding appliqué black lace over the hip circles and neckline and/or beading some of the corset for added sparkle. I have enough of this silk left to make a skirt to match the corset but I'm not sure if this look is appropriate for the public - what do you think (some public opinions would really help me out). I could also make a little lace top to go under the corset for modesty but I kind of wanted to let this make shine on her own if possible.

Doing half the chicken dance apparently
My final thoughts on the corsetry process and the course: 
1) corsets are HARD WORK - there is a reason real ones are so expensive- and I would absolutely need to practice a couple more time before even attempting to make a corset for someone else.
2) corsets are FUN and I think once I had the pattern and process down I could get a bit quicker in the construction (this one took me probably 5 days all up, as in 30+ hours sewing!)
3) Lesley is a fabulous teacher - she is soooo knowledgable, positive and encouraging and it was just easy to learn from her - originally I thought this course was a little overpriced but having completed it? It is a bargain!

Table Photo Bomb
I really enjoyed learning sewing technique in a formal setting which surprised me a lot. Many of these short courses are run once a year so I am thinking of making it an annual thing, where I pick a short sewing course once a year to attend and learn new skills etc.



I don't know how quickly I'll make another corset simply because they are a lot of work for a garment that isn't everyday wear but I learned sooo much that can be applied to other garment sewing from this course it almost doesn't matter. I'm sure the corset fairy will visit again however, I do have rather a lot of purple silk in my fabric box after all...

Tuesday, 15 July 2014

Headless Leggings

The title of this post comes from taking photos of these leggings (which went something like - "do you want your head in it? Or do you just want a headless leggings shot?") just in case you were wondering. I seriously never thought there would ever be a day when I would admit that leggings are an acceptable form of leg wear!

This shows the fabric best - all those leg circles are paying off!!

Strangely enough though - now that I have tried making my own I think I will be needing to make some of these up so I always have a pair at the ready!! They are soooo comfy and so long as you choose a heavier opaque fabric you can easily eliminate the see-through-leggings-do-NOT-equal-pants issue that tends to happen with ALL store bought leggings. 

That said - this pair was intended as a wearable muslin and unfortunately is a little too see-through to qualify as pants. I used some strange wet-look, black-on-black leopard print stretch fabric which was great to brush up on my stretch sewing skills and has a cool effect but is quite lightweight so these will be relegated to the "heavy tights" category and always worn with longer tops to cover my butt (literally).

This is how I would normally wear these leggings - under tunics/dresses etc.

The pattern is a very old knitwit gym wear edition from Mum but despite the age, this type of garment really doesn't change. All I altered was to add about 10 inches to the leg to make these long pants. Next time I would probably take 2 inches off the waist band too as these do sit a little high on me.

These literally took me like 2 hours to make - gotta love a pattern with only one piece to cut!!

Part of the reason I wanted leggings is because I am currently working on a 30 day legs and abs challenge and I suddenly noticed that my thighs actually look a bit less jelly-like. I always thought leggings wouldn't flatter me since my legs aren't my best feature but now I am suddenly re-thinking this concept. 

Checking the stretch factor and working on my splits - hello multitasking!
It's great when you try something outside your comfort zone and it actually works - hello whole new world of leggings and stretch sewing!!

Breathe, Stretch and Sew!

Stacey

Friday, 11 July 2014

Some Very Special News

Hello hello!!

I'm back after a bit of an internet hiatus as such - our trip on the Strzelecki and Birdsville tracks was a wonderful break from reality (and technology lol)!
First things first - no I am not pregnant! I'm sure at least one or more person(s) was assuming that so I'm gonna be upfront and say no, no babies here now ;-)


However, I do have a bit of an exciting announcement - I am starting a project called StaceyMade Fashion!


I met the lovely Pemily from The Pin Up Lounge in Port Adelaide a few weeks ago and she was SO excited about my home sewn clothes and asked me if I had ever considered selling the things I make. I have been thinking along those lines lately (after years of swearing I would NEVER sew for anyone but me!) so I have actually taken her up on the offer in a small-side-project kind of way.

Halter Dress in Cotton Rayon blend, Size 10
So I have been cloistered away the past week or so, whipping up a handful of lovely frocks that I've been wanting to make for myself - the catch is I'm not keeping them. Instead these lovely items will be available for purchase through The Pin Up Lounge's lovely clothing boutique! I have started small and all these dresses are my size (Australian size 10-12 roughly) so I didn't have to think to hard about pattern changes/fit etc. If there are people looking for these styles in a different size or a custom design/fit I'll consider branching out.

Sheath Dress in Cotton Sateen, Size 12
Please note this is still only going to be a part of my life (I suspect I will still have to have a 'real job' and I'd like to still have a life too!) so I may not be able to take on complex custom designs yet - I want to see how things go and not overwork myself so I stay healthy. Just a little disclaimer so no-one expects miracles from me ;-)
Sundress in Cotton Lawn, Size 10
That disclaimer aside I'm really excited to be trying this out and to be sharing my style of hand-made fashion!
The dresses will be available in Pemily's beautiful vintage shop at 7 Holmes Street, Port Adelaide - Pem has such a gorgeous set-up and is such a beautiful person - it was really just her sheer enthusiasm that convinced me to give this a go in the first place. She is also wonderfully talented with hair, make-up and styling - the whole creative package (I wish I had her around when I got married - seriously, her bridal looks are to die for!) She also offers Pin Up Photo shoot packages which are terrific fun and lead to some amazing shots!!

The Dress that Started It All - Vintage 1950's design, not for sale (sorrynotsorry) but if you're interested in a custom version please contact me!
I have a facebook page at www.facebook.com/StaceyMadeFashion Please like and share my page if there is someone you know who appreciates handmade touches and is looking for a vintage-inspired look.
If you like what you see, head on into The Pin Up Lounge to see for yourself and maybe buy something beautiful and handmade!

Sundress in Cotton Lawn, Size 10

Tuesday, 10 June 2014

Gifted Distractions: Quilting with Elephants

Phew!

After the conclusion of the Me Made May Madness I feel as though I have a pile of projects I just want to dive into but I have once again been distracted! 


This time it's by a quilting project - not for me but as a little gift for a lovely collegue about to go on maternity leave. I should also mention I decided to make this quilt only 2 weeks before I wanted to give it... Hmmm time for speedy sewing, so I picked a design that doesn't have to be perfect (at least compared to normal extra-precise quilting designs) I've always wanted to try my hand at rag quilts in flannel fabric ever since I saw one at a craft fair years ago. The flannel is so cuddley soft and the fluffy quilt edges give this type of quilt a more casual, almost shabby-chic appeal.

How cute is this fabric??!! Bright Coloured Elephants!
I used this tutorial and bought my fabric at Tricia's Discount Fabric here in Adelaide. Tricia has a wonderful selection of quilters flannel and I was instantly drawn to these cute elephants! I picked out 2 supporting prints and bought some wool/poly batting as I like how puffy it looks when quilted plus I know it's warm having used it in our bed quilt a few years ago. The staff at Tricia's are fantastic and really know their stuff, if you're in Adelaide it is a great place to shop.

After cutting the seams, before the final wash and dry

I actually was a good girl and pre-washed these fabrics on a cold machine wash so the finished quilt will be machine washable for all those baby messes! The final thing to do after trimming the seams is wash and dry the quilt in a dryer so the seams fluff-up into the rag finish.

The finished quilt after washing and drying
The actual construction went pretty quick - thanks mainly to Mum's invaluable help folding and cutting the squares at the start. I finally learned to chain piece which helped speed things up. In the end this baby was done in about 10 hours! While the finish is not perfect - proper quilters would weep most likely - I really enjoyed this technique and would definitely consider making more of these quilts in the future.



It's quite big for a cot quilt, particularly compared to the normal cot panel size so it will be nice as a top layer in really cold weather or even as a play rug on the floor.

You may also have noticed I have revamped the blog look a little - I'm still playing around with how I want it to look/feel so any feedback on what you like or don't like will be welcomed!

I really wanted to post this last weekend but I didn't want to blow the surprise of this gift so I held off until now. I will be internet free for the next 2 weeks so sadly there will be no blog action until July now.

See you next month!

OXOX

Stacey

Sunday, 1 June 2014

Me Made May '14 - Day 24 to 30

Final week of Me Made May!! This month has shown me a lot and I'm amazed to say I made it through 30 days with only 4 items of Me-Made clothing re-worn.

Sunday, Day 24

Top: Tokito, thrifted from Balmain Markets

Leggins: Cotton On

Socks: Bonds

I did actually wear boots this day since it was our sewing day and yes that is the Fabric Folding Assistants foot photo bombing on the left!

Monday, Day 25

Shirt: Jackie E

Cardigan: Target

Skirt: Made by Me - Kwik Sew 3337

Belt: Target

Tuesday, Day 26

Knit: Target

Vest: Made by Me - Simplicity 2150

Skirt: Jay Jays

Necklace: Ummmm no idea, maybe the central markets somewhere?

This vest was one of those makes where the fit and quality was great but I had no idea how to style or wear it, until I really had to think of garments to wear this month. And I actually love this look and will definitely wear it again - WINNING!

Wednesday, Day 27

Knit: Target

Cardigan: Big W

Pants: Made by Me - Sewaholic Thurlows (blogged here)

Shoes: Target

Thursday, Day 28

Cardigan: Jackie E

Dress: Made by Me - Vogue 8615

Belt: Target

Shoes: Target

Friday, Day 29

Shirt: Made by Me - McCalls 5471 (out of print now - no online resources available)

Jeans: Forever New

Ugh Boots: Kmart

Saturday, Day 30

Top: Made by Me - Lekala Free Pattern 8004

Cardigan: Target

Pants: Made by Me - Sewaholic Thurlows (blogged here)

Boots: Williams

One of the fun parts of taking pictures every day was when FFA (photo bombing here too like a creeper) decided to make a game out of screwing up the pics. Taking photos every day is a pain but is also a great learning curve. I have discovered I have only 2 poses in which I can take a decent looking selfie which means 'proper' blog photos are definitely going to fall under someone else's jurisdiction. However I also discovered I don't look as terrible in photos as I usually think so overall daily photos were a positive experience (thank god they are over now though!)


Me Made May was all about having fun and trying out blogging about sewing to see if this was something I wanted to do. Aside from the annoyance of having to take daily photographs for Me Made May I really do like recording my sewing adventures and sharing them. On a more serious note this whole process has started getting me thinking about what I want to do with my time the most. Sewing and creating really does seem to bring me the most joy at the moment so I'm thinking of ways I can bring more of this into my life now. So Me Made May really was worth the challenge. 

Will keep updates coming if my new plans come to pass!

Thanks Me Made May for the challenge :-D

I'll be back with some more new makes in the coming weeks,

Seeya then!!

Stacey

Saturday, 31 May 2014

Sunshine! Lollipops! And Rainbows! Pot-of-gold Thurlows

This is one of those completely irrational projects. There were easier pant patterns available after all. And more sensible coloured fabric. But for some irrational reason I had to have golden yellow wool trousers. With welt pockets. And a fly front. It was time for my first Thurlows!

The role of fabric in Sydney that started it all!

I found this beautiful wool fabric in The Fabric Store in Sydney. It only came in this colour which I wouldn't normally wear (mustard yellow is sooooo NOT my colour, put it near my face and I look like I have jaundice). The longer I looked at it though the more I liked it! Plus this fabric feels amazing. I figured since it's not up against my face it's ok to wear and it does match back with a lot of my tops since I wear so much purple, blue and green.

This is seriously the best welt pocket I have ever constructed! 

I haven't sewed up the Thurlow pattern from Sewaholic before so a muslin was in order. I tried a size 2 but found it was a little tight across my hips so I made a size 4 up in my good fabric instead. Good thing too, since I ended up needing to open up the centre back seam by about 1cm to 1.5cm to get a good fit in the final pair. Fortunately the pattern is designed for this, and is shaped to fit in at the waist so you don't end up with pants that fit in the hip but fall down at the waist. I suspect every pair of these I make will need to be basted and fitted at the back seam each time to check the fit before the final sew. It is a small price to pay though, as these are seriously some of the nicest pants I have ever owned, let along made!

My first fly front finish - aaaww yeeeaaahh!

I used the tutorial for the Thurlow trousers from Lladybird to help me follow the pattern instructions and the extra pictures and notes definitely helped me get such a high quality finish. I think these might be the nicest finished and most complicated pants I've ever finished. And I looooove them!

Sunshiney pants for rainy days? Yes Please!

I originally meant to line them in this gorgeous printed lawn fabric which also had a yellow background but after sewing one pocket perfectly I discovered the wool was more sheer than I had thought and you could see the print completely through the fabric. So I'm saving the crazy lining for when I have a darker fabric to make these up in and I used some basic white poplin from my stash instead. 
It was great to make a pattern with so many little details that make them look "not-home-made". These are the sort of pants that people are surprised when you say "I made them" and I love that about this pattern.

Why helloooo perfectly constructed pockets :-)

I skipped adding belt loops -  I made them and they were pretty but as soon as I sewed them on they looked tacky and very home-made in the worst way. So I unpicked them and will consider adding them sewn into the waistband seam next time. This whole belt loops thing set me back about a week on hemming these babies but they are finally finished.

Excuse the VPL - I was standing in the rain for these pics so speed was of the essence! No time to adjust!!

I probably could have made a size 6 given I added another seam allowance to the back seam but I was worried they would be too baggy around the upper thigh and that would ruin the nice tailored look of this pattern. Given the design is made to be altered I'm happy with this fit and will probably use the same size again for future pairs. Oh yes there will be more Thurlow's in my life - I'm already planning a charcoal suiting pair, a grey herringbone wool pair and some cute green shorts come next Summer. Plus there is the possibility of changing the leg style to skinny and making these up in denim *gasp* could it be TIME FOR ME-MADE JEANS??.... Duh duh daaaaaa! I always swore I would never make jeans since you can buy them so cheap but having lost a little weight now none of my jeans fit and I soooo like the look and feel of these trousers. Hmmm thoughts for the future.

Finally, thanks to Dad for taking these great pics for me despite the rainy weather - I am really glad to have help with photos for this blog - photographer I am not :-D

It has been cold, wet and rainy all week here but every time I wear these pants I smile because they are so cheery and bright - Do you have any clothing reserved for rainy days just because it makes you so happy?

Stay Cheery and Warm!

Stace

OXOX

Friday, 23 May 2014

Me Made May '14 - Day 17 to 23

Aaand week 3 is here, only 1 more week to go!

Saturday, Day 17


Dress: Made by Me - pattern mash up of McCalls 6754 (bodice) and Vogue 8615 (skirt)

Yes - I literally didn't wear shoes most of the day :) This is my attempt at a skater dress - I preferred the vogue skirt length so I grafted it onto the McCalls top. Unfortunately the top is at least a size too big but this is a really comfy, well-finished make so it still gets wear on the weekends.

Sunday, Day 18



Top: Made by Me - Bluegingerdoll Mae blouse

Jeans: Forever New

Boots: Kmart

I love this blouse and need more!!

Monday, Day 19


Cape: Made by Me - McCalls 6446 blogged here

Leggings: Cotton On

Boots: Kmart

Home sick again today, went out for supplies so cuddly cape was the way to go!

Tuesday, Day 20


Top: Made by Me - New Look 6838

Cardigan: Big W

Pants: Made by Me - Sewaholic Thurlows (to be blogged soon)

Boots: Betts and Betts

Thanks Hannah for snapping this picture right before pole class!

Wednesday, Day 21



Dress: Made by Me - New Look 6429 (out of print - no online resources available)

Shoes: Wittner

Thursday, Day 22


Top: Thrifted for $1!

Cardigan: Jackie E

Pants: Made by Me - Sewaholic Thurlows again!

I wore this with the same boots as Tuesday.

Friday, Day 23


Top: Valleygirl

Jacket: Made by Me - New Look 6947 (listed as out-of-print online but probably still available in some stores)

Jeans: Forever New

Boots: Kmart

Wow, this week crept up on me but finally rounded up all the outfits. Looking forward to our sewing day Pendrell sewalong on Sunday so hopefully I will have a new top to add to the rotation soon!!

Entering the last complete week of MMM now, think I will kind of miss this challenge when it's over...

OXOX
Stace